Mouth-watering kebabs, aromatic biryani, and airy, ethereal desserts.
The metropolis in India's north of Lucknow has long been a food lovers' paradise, with locals and tourists alike swearing by its remarkable cuisine.
An International Accolade
Last month, Unesco designated it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – including it in a prestigious list of global cities and sparking hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's sublime food. With this status, it joins a international community of cities urban centers across over 100 countries dedicated to promoting "innovation as a catalyst of city development that is sustainable".
The honor "demonstrates its profound gastronomic legacy and lively food ecosystem," as noted by a official from Unesco's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is only the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to find a place in this coveted list of 70 cities around the world.
A City Defined by Food
The accolade for this time-honored city is no surprise to its residents or avid food lovers. Many share the sentiment that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO recognition, this beloved, bustling, and eclectic city – the administrative center of India's biggest state – is now in the global gaze for what has always defined its heart: an unparalleled passion for food.
"'The day's menu, the method of preparation' is a continued dialogue from morning until going to bed in many homes," explains a local cultural expert. "And you are often judged by the quality of food that emerges from your kitchen."
A Royal Culinary Legacy
The City of Nawabs – as it's widely known after its 18th and 19th-century affluent Muslim rulers – is noted for its melt-in-the-mouth kebabs and a singular take on biryani that were conceived, evolved, and elevated to extraordinary levels in their opulent kitchens.
These royal kitchens were centers of culinary innovations, blending Iranian and native Indian styles to create what became known as the culinary tradition of Awadh.
It was in this era that Lucknow's most famous kebabs were fashioned. The story goes that the galouti kebab was devised to cater to an ageing nawab who had lost his teeth. His cooks minced the meat with papaya, saffron, and spices and made it so soft that it required no chewing.
But arguably the greatest contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a low, slow heat, with the pot's lid securely sealed with a flour paste.
More Than Just Famous Dishes
Besides the well-known kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also developed a collection of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is far more than kebabs and biryani – the region is also a vegetarian's paradise.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine doesn't just highlights seasonal produce but also provides the city its highly curated Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – zesty fried snacks.
Time-Tested Food Joints
Nearly on many street corners, there are tiny kiosks and stalls – lesser-known treasures that are immensely popular with the locals.
In the city center of Hazratganj, huge crowds start gathering from early morning at a renowned tea stall to get a steaming cup of milky masala chai, served in clay glasses, along with fluffy buns lathered with hand-churned white butter.
To start the day, one can head to a unpretentious joint situated in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was founded, the place is still highly popular for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Safeguarding a Culinary Heritage
The city also presents unique seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a airy dessert available in the winter. The method of making it is intricate and complicated. The artisan whisks the milk and then sets it out at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its incredible airy feel.
On chilly mornings, street vendors can be seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Some however note that their younger generation are reluctant to take up the art.
A well-known culinary expert from Lucknow has noted that the city's profound food legacy positions it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The true benefit from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will be realized only if Lucknow can now build recognition about its hidden eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow tells a story – influenced by generational food businesses, from modest street carts to lively restaurants, and closely held family recipes.
The worldwide honor, it is hoped, will inspire more people worldwide to explore these narratives and visit the city to taste the culinary delights of Lucknow.
